Cologne and more, Xmas markets, non-stall options?

Glad I got to visit in the early 80s tagging along on a school trip with my dad’s HS orchestra. I have vague memories of many Fachwerkhäuser, but not too many tourists. We stayed at the youth hostel in the actual Burg, which was pretty cool for a kid my age — as was being gifted my first sheath knife purchased in Rothenburg.

But much worse restaurant scene - it wasn’t difficult to find great restaurants in Strasbourg but a very high % of restaurants are too tourist focused and the food rather disappointing

The best restaurants in Alsace (has more michelin stars and bib gourmand than any region other than Paris) are almost all in the hinterlands. the classic local fare places are great, particulary in the suburbs and towns north of Strasbourg on the way to Germany. Strasbourg (capital of europe, among others) and Colmar are huge draws for domestic and german tourists, not to mention everyone else and so there is little incentive for quality, in my view.

But Strassbourg doesn’t feel this overrun by tourists and there are many more people living there, so I think there is a much higher incentive for restaurants to have a significant higher level of quality than in Colmar. But agree, that there are many interesting restaurants in the “Walachei”

I’ve only been to strasbourg in November and at Xmas time but it’s an annual trip for several years now as my wife has buinses there and we are always visiting my longtime friend who lives in not too far away Frankfurt. During that time it does feel quite tourist, if not Rotherburg Ob Tauber level. The restaurants I’ve been to (all recommended by natives) have been fine but nothing special, particulary in comparison to places north of the city and in the small villages at the foot of vosges all the way down to Mulhouse, and some closer to the Rhine. Our frends from there openly state this and are more enthusiatic about places outside of the city, with the odd new bistro or smaller resto capturing their attention. I agree it’s certainly better than Colmar. But maybe I’ve just been to the wrong places. I saw your most recent post, are there other spots you like in Strasbourg? We are heading there again soon.

Haven’t been since those post and previous visits to Strasbourg are too long ago to be still reliable for restaurants

All in Cologne…thr first European city I ever visited. I love this city!

Ill add another vote to the Sion Brauerei…its been there since 15something and is a great experience.

The Gaffel brauerei overlooks the Rhine and makes the best schweinehaxe (pork knuckle) Ive ever had.

Peters isnt my favorite kölsch but has definitely the best ambience and terrific food.

Skip früh. Overtouristy, forgettable food, and the bottom rung of kölsch in my list of favorites

The Corkonian pub in the Aldstadt is a great Irish pub

I havent been since before the pandemic, but I hope this restaurant is still around (a quick google is inconclusive)

Trattoria Abruzzese da Carmina in Alteburgerstrasse was one of the most amazing Italian restaurants Ive ever been in…tiny and family run…I took friends and colleagues there for many happy meals for years

Yeah, I hate Früh — both the brewery and the beer.

@tigerjohn thanks, we’ll be there Nov 28-Dec 1, taking a hotel in Mulhouse because of easy train to the others. Saturday is for Colmar and possibly the shuttle to the smaller markets around…I would explore Ubers if we don’t get into the shuttle. Don’t drive a shift stick so less enamored of driving. Sunday is Strasbourg.

Also, NOT looking for Michelin stars at all, won’t be appropriately dressed (see below). I have no issue with getting back to anywhere at night and having late dinners, hoping we are only competing with lots of older people who want to eat early🤣

I know everything will be crowded, this is when my daughter has pto so we’ll deal. I’m far more concerned about getting everything into a carryon because I don’t want to schlep a suitcase around with all these train rides.

@linguafood I’m from Chicago and we have great steak so unless I’m tired of heavy German food I’ll probably skip the steak!

I’d heard of the Ima/Grandma spot and appreciate the rec on where to get Kolsch and to avoid Fruh.

Now I just have to figure out what’s the best meals in each spot!