Cologne and more, Xmas markets, non-stall options?

I will be doing a ridiculous 2 weeks with my daughter visiting Xmas markets in Germany, France and Switzerland. Seriously, we’re on a train every other day.

Anyway, I know there will be a ton of gluhwein and snacks throughout the markets and look forward to that. But I know myself and will want a sit down restaurant where I can get some sort of protein meal. Nice service a plus. Moderate price ranges, preferably around €35 when possible.

I’ve researched but I’m always hesitant to take recs from a non-foodie site. Even the names that pop up frequently I take with a grain of salt since there are alway people who recommend Olive Garden too.

And so, if you have any suggestions for Basel, Strasbourg/Colmar, Cologne or Nuremberg, I will be forever grateful. Merci, danke, thank you.

I would go here in Cologne.

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in Nuremberg, I think you’ll also find protein outside at stalls, they sell their Drei Im Weggla at the Xmas Market and near the train station.

I would probably seek out a restaurant focused on Franconian food in Nuremberg.

Here is one with good reviews.

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I always like having a meal at the Ratskeller in various German cities when I visit and don’t know where to eat. The food is always pretty good traditional food in my experience. Many German cities run a Ratskeller restaurant in the lower level of their City Hall or Town Hall. I can’t seem to find one for Cologne or Nuremberg. I have had good meals at the Ratskeller in Munich, Leipzig and in some small towns

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I enjoyed a meal at this place in Strasbourg

France is on a separate regional board. There may be more recs for Strasbourg and Colmar over there.

I would recommend you start a separate Xmas Market thread for Colmar and Strasbourg on the France Board. Perhaps, also start a thread about dining in Basel.

I grew up just south of Cologne & have been there more times I can count. My first band practiced and performed mostly in Cologne

So, I’m happy to share some firsthand knowledge from an actual native

If you want a traditional Köln experience, you should def get thee to one of the many Kölsch breweries. Yeah, they can be touristy, but it’s a fun experience nonetheless. A lot of them are close to the train station (and the stunning cathedral), i.e. in the center of the old city, so you wouldn’t have to venture very far, depending on where you are staying.

Brauerei Zur Malzmühle even saw former prez Clinton darken their door and enjoying a nice meal of Sauerbraten, a very traditional dish from the area.

Sion is nice, too. The staff can be a bit abrasive, but it’s part of a shtick — and not just for tourists. Brauhaus Reissdorf brews one of my favorite Kölsch & has good, hearty food.

Some specialties to try:

Halver Hahn literally means half a rooster, but it’s actually a thick slice of gouda on rye with onion and paprika — leaving many a customer disappointed

Himmel un Ääd, which is mashed & apple sauce, most often served along fried blood sausage or liverwurst

Sauerbraten (marinated beef)

Bratwurst is a no-brainer almost anywhere in Germany, and you’ll find your fill at the various xmas markets, too. Same with Riefkooche, which are like hashbrowns/latkes, usually topped with apple sauce.

The xmas markets have something to munch on for any taste (tho I personally eschew Glühwein bc I don’t care for hot booze of any kind, altho I’ll make the occasional excuse for mead, which can also be found at some xmas markets): garlicky mushroom skillets, Dampfnudeln (big fat yeasty dumplings with plum filling and vanilla sauce & poppyseeds), roasted chestnuts, brats, all kinds of sweets…

You won’t go hungry.

I’ve only been to Nürnberg once & spent but an afternoon in Strasbourg as a wee one, so I can’t really give you any reliable information for either place that would be up-to-date, and never have been to Zurich. Best to repost on the regional boards (France & Switzerland, respectively).

Gute Reise & Guten Appetit!

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I’ve got ideas for Alsace which I deleted but I’ll put them in a France thread if you start one. Not a lot of non-Paris threads so great to start one.

In Nurnburg, try the local specialty Schauferle, a crispy pork shoulder wedge sort of like how a knuckle is done. I don’t have a specific rec at this time but I’d try and find a reputable sit down olace, and it won’t be expensive. If you venture outside of cities in Franconia I will have more recs. As a note, car rental is not that expensive and there are nice experience to be had beyond the large city markets, which can sometimes get a bit commercial. Often they can also be reached by train but it take some planning.

Yes, Schäufele is delish — as is tarte d’Alsace / Flammkuchen, another specialty from the area.

Damn, now yer making me miss German food!

This. Himmel und Erde/Aad! I saw Bourdain talking about this in Phoenikia’s link and I was convinced that this alone is a good reason to travel to Koln. I am in Spain and am ordering Morcilla/blood sausage just about every time I see it on a menu. Love that type of sausage!!

I really like Sauerbraten, and the Rheinisch type is the one served in Cologne. It was traditionally made with horsemeat. Luckily, for horse lovers who dont want to eat horse meat, the beef Sauerbraten is easy to find. I make it once a year or so.

Sauerbraten is from the Rhineland, so any “variations” would be from other regions.

It’s akin to calling bolognese “Bologna-style” bolognese.

When in Köln, live dangerously, try the ubiquitous Mettbrötchen or Mett on Kölner Röggelchen. That’s pork tartare on rye buns/bread. So glad my hotel* in Köln has good Mett as part of breakfast spread. (*Hotel Ludwig near central station). Go to a traditional brewery-restaurant and eat something typically local or regional. Yes, they also serve Mett.

There are many traditional brewery-restaurants in Köln and Nürnberg and that’s where I do much of my eating and drinking. If you go at lunch time you won’t fail to notice the local regulars who outnumber tourists (but maybe not during christmas market time).

Have been to christmas markets in Strasbourg and Colmar. Prefer German

As far as I understand, there is also a Bavarian-style Sauerbraten that is made in Bavaria.

I was under the impression there are 2 distinct regional Sauerbraten that are made in Germany.

There is also the American Sauerbraten which is a variation on the Rhenish Sauerbraten.

Turns out there is also a Silesian variation. mentioned in the wiki.

from the Wiki:

Screenshot_20251028-1507491080×384 40.7 KB

The Franconian Sauerbraten is more acidic than the Rhenish Sauerbraten, and it does not contain raisins.

Perhaps the OP can order Sauerbraten in Cologne and in Nuremberg, and let us know which one the OP prefers.

I can recommend the Bavarian Sauerbraten at Spatenhaus an der Oper in Munich.

Oh, how could I forget Mettbrötchen! Yes. An acquired taste for sure, but oh-so delicious

Then why not share where in Köln you had your favorite sauerbraten with the OP and the rest of us?

Amazing! Thank you so much.

Many thanks, I appreciate this so much!

You’re very welcome. It’s my old stomping grounds (I had a BF there for a hot minute, too), but I don’t know how many nights you plan on staying there — otherwise I’d have some more recommendations… like THE BEST STEAK of my life (no joke!), and a few nice pubs and restaurants in the Belgian Quarter

Thank you. I had started a thread over there about Provence and Nice and didn’t get great responses. We do have an overnight in Rothenburg ob de Tauber which has been highly recommended for the market. I do much prefer local handmade stuff vs products made in china!

@linguafood Again, really appreciate it. We’re in Cologne 3 days, 2 nights. I’m more about the food than the markets, and I’m paying (!) so my daughter will accommodate me.

So, if you appreciate a good steak, get thee to El Gaucho. You may have to take a tram or subway (or cab), depending on where you’re staying. Cologne has a weirdly confusing, not very intuitive layout and larger streets changing their names several times (I can’t count the times I’d get lost on my way to band practice ).

That, and one of the brewhouses like Sion or Reissdorf would be my rec. There was an Italian place I loved in the Belgian quarter, but my last visit there was over 30 years ago

Will you be able to get outside of Strasbourg and Colmar with a vehicle? If so, I have some recs. Otherwise, wait a couple of weeks and I’ll have some ideaas as we are heading there this weekend. Of the two, Colmar has the better Xmas experience, in my view.

Rotherburg ob Tauber is overrun with tourists and I hope you are there on a weekday to lessen the crowds. Despite this, it is an amazing place, particualry at christmas although I don’t think the market in particular stands out (it’s still quite nice). We didn’t eat there so I don’t have any specfiic restaurant recs to provide.