Very long - Report for Equal Measure and Standard Italian
Executive summary: Went to dine at Eastern Standard, ended up at Standard Italian instead. Had a very nice experience.
I can’t believe ESK re-opened almost two years ago! Time flies…and despite being a fairly regular customer and huge fan of its prior incarnation, I only just made it over there (in a sense) last night. Since I’ve been looking forward to this for some time I decided to document it. I hope you’ll enjoy my book report!
We had a reservation for a slightly later table at ESK, and decided to first visit Equal Measure, its sister bar, for a drink. It was still pretty early, around 6:00, and we found ourselves in a nearly empty room. Just us and two other patrons at the bar. I’ve said it before in other threads, but the city often just seems emptier that it used to on a Friday evening, which makes me kind of sad.
In any case, the room is nicely appointed as I’d expect from the group that runs Eastern Standard, and the bar menu had some very interesting stuff including a “culinary” section that had a few non-sweet drinks made with vegetable juices. Unfortunately they were out of the two that caught my eye, so I opted for a drink with strawberry and sparkling wine, and my dining companion tried a stirred drink of whiskey and bitters.
The strawberry drink was, unfortunately, not especially to my liking. I felt that it was notably unbalanced and needed some extra acidity. The stirred drink was much better, but kind of a typical stirred whiskey drink.
To accompany the drinks, deviled eggs with caviar.
These were well done and very tasty. Nothing especially notable if you’ve had a deviled egg before, which is perhaps a good thing in this case. Clean, simple, and a great accompaniment to some drinks.
Service at first felt a bit perfunctory, which was surprising due to the completely empty bar, but the bartender warmed up a bit as we sat. We mentioned that we had a later reservation for Eastern Standard, and she heavily suggested that we consider heading to Standard Italian first, and then “maybe visit Eastern Standard for an after dinner drink.” The underlying implication, which she very diplomatically worked around and didn’t actually come out and say directly, was that Eastern Standard’s food is a bit subpar. At this point we decided to have a second drink at Standard Italian and see where it took us.
The scene at Standard Italian, I was happy to see, was quite a bit more buzzing than at Equal Measure. Not exactly packed, but a decent crowd. We sat at the very end of the bar. The room here is much sparser and “harder” than Equal Measure. Bar stools have no backs, and everything feels somewhat utilitarian.
We ordered a couple of drinks – a “Chef Brian’s Negroni” for me, another stirred cocktail for my dining companion, this one featuring vodka and Benedictine.
The Negroni was…well, a Negroni. Not a bad one! The vodka and Benedictine cocktail was just as sweet as you might imagine such a creation to be. Not something I was personally into, but my dining companion enjoyed it.
To go along with the drinks, onion dip with trout roe. (Two for two on roe – always a good start to the evening.)
As we were eating the dip – which was very tasty – we realized we were hungrier than we’d thought, and decided to try a trio of cured meats. From the menu of around eight or nine choices we decided on soppressata, speck, and wagyu bresaola.
This was quite a nice plate of food! The soppressata in particular was amazing (I need to figure out what the producer is), and the other two meats were very good. The bresaola was just bresaola. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that; but I have to admit that I ordered it thinking it would be extra-special due to its wagyu provenance.) Olives were mixed in with some cubes of provolone, and the bread – some sort of focaccia variation – had a nice crunch.
Service was notably better at Standard Italian. The bartender engaged with us despite being extremely busy for the first part of our time there, answered various questions we had about the menu, and generally made us feel welcome. One thing I really liked: The stirred vodka/Benedictine drink pictured above came with a small carafe on the side of some extra drink. As my dining companion finished the first glass, instead of merely refilling empty glass, the bartender swapped it out for a fresh one. A very nice touch. Jackson Cannon was behind the bar most of our time here, which can’t have hurt. He wasn’t directly tending bar – I’m not sure if he does that anymore – but he was expediting. It was great to see him in action again after several years.
As we finished the meat plate it was almost time for our Eastern Standard reservation and we asked the bartender if we should stay at Standard Italian or move on. We received much the same response as we had at Equal Measure: An indication that maybe we’d enjoy the food more if we stayed at Standard Italian.
So…that’s exactly what we did. A couple of glasses of Nebbiolo (decent), and two shared plates: pumpkin-filled tortelloni with brown butter and balsamic, and Chicken Marsala.
The tortelloni plate was split by the kitchen, so there would be six in a normal serving. In any case: this was really, really good. Rich, comforting, perfect. The chicken marsala was also excellent. Fried, which I was not expecting, and very crispy. Sauce well seasoned and flavorful. Really nicely done in both cases.
We’d had enough at this point and decided to pass on Eastern Standard altogether. Not sure I mind at all given the undertone of the evening. I am also sorry to report that as we left Standard Italian - just before 9:00 - it was practically deserted. Perhaps Equal Measure would have filled up by then? I didn’t stick my head in to check, but I hope these places can survive.
All in all, a nice evening. Thanks for reading, if you made it this far!