We’ve finished our exploring and are now ensconced at one of my favorite spots for relaxation in Italy, just inland from the tiny port of Savelletri and a few miles from the larger town of Fasano. Since we were here last, about 2012, a few more luxury masserie have opened and I feared that the area had lost some of its charm. But the little port of Savelletri appears to be the same as it was back then, although there are several new places to dine.
Although the famous towns of the Valle d"Itria are within an easy drive–it’s a half hour drive to Ostuni, for example, I think we will stay closer to our base and take most of our meals in Savelletri itself. But if anyone has a strong recommendation for a restaurant in Monopoli or Locorotondo, I’m certainly willing to take the drive. Extra points ifi it’s in the countryside, so I don’t have to navigate tiny streets of a town in the dark.
Besides the fancy masserie, Savelletri (and neighboring Torre Canne, is part of the “costa de ricci,” the sea urchin coast (restaurants have names like RICCIOLANDIA, etc) but, sadly, one of my favorite delicacies is not only out of season but there is a ban on taking them. (I did have a plate in Bari last week, but when I mentioned this at last night’s restaurant they told me they may have come from Croatia.
OSTERIA DEL PORTO, Savelletri
No frills place a few steps from the Adriatic, this was recommended by a staff member at our hotel. (BTW, I asked him about IL CORTILLETO, in nearby Speziale, an easy drive from here and where we had been years ago; he advised me to stay away as it was now “totally tourist land.”)
By 9pm on a Saturday night, the restaurant was filled with Italians including groups of young persons and a few families. Breakfasts at our hotel are so sumptuous that neither of us had much appetite, even for dinner, but what we did eat was very good and I’d recommend if you happen to be in the area.
Menu:
I’m not sure I’ve ever ordered sausage at a restaurant, but I envied my partner for his dish, and grabbed a nice portion for myself. Outstanding, as were the accompanying roasted potatoes, and the house-fried. potato slices that we also ordered, by mistake. Cisternino is a meat town not too far away, so might have to investigate a restaurant there–recommendations welcome.
I chose an orata from the fish display, grilled, and this, too, was excellent:
For 56 euro total, this was a very simple, but very good, dinner.
