[Shanghai, Jing'an] Ren He Guan 人和馆 (静安寺店)

Got off the plane at Pudong Airport in late afternoon. Wife and kids were still in another city so I was in Shanghai by myself for almost two days.

I booked the hotel in Jing’an on the assumption that there was an airport bus direct to the Jing’an station. Lucky me the bus route was cancelled a few months prior, after the bus station worker told me in I thought Shanghainese (which I don’t speak) and pointed to the announcement. Fine, I would take the subway instead. A little longer but no biggie. I didn’t take the magnetic levitation train (431 km/h before 2021, 300 km/h after 2021) since that would take me to only half way between Pudong and Jing’an, and I had to change to the same subway line afterwards.

The subway was overland for a number of stations before it headed underground.

A giant parking lot of miles and miles of what looked like new cars. Unsold electrical vehicle inventory?

Some elevated roadway being built.

Arrived at Jing’an station. Right above ground was the giant Jing’an Temple complex.

Walked a few blocks to my hotel. Along the way, I spotted my dinner choice- Ren He Guan. Ren He Guan was a Shanghai food specialist. Shanghai cuisine (上海菜/ 沪菜/ 本帮菜) is different from Zhejiang food, and Suzhou food. Shanghai being the largest city in China, has good representations of cuisine from every province. But since I was in Shanghai, I wanted to eat Shanghai food. Because its the first night. I was jetlagged, so I just wanted something simple and close by. I would settle into the hotel first before coming back out to eat.

I also saw Peet’s Coffee. Ok. I didn’t come all the way here to get the same coffee as I would back home, since they started in Berkeley.

There’s actually two Ren He Guan location in the same building. Upstairs and downstairs. Upstairs was the Michelin location with the kitchen that cooked a wider range of dishes, that was more popular and harder to get into. Downstairs was the noodle shop, which I went to. I had:

Yellow fish noodle. I picked the yellow fish noodle because I haven’t had wild caught yellow fish for a long time. Yellow fish is a flaky white fish that’s delicate and delicious. My first mistake was that I should recognize because the noodle was only 48 yuan, that I was definitely not getting the wild caught version. The noodle itself was pretty decent, but the fish was definitely a bit more fishy because its the farm raised version. I would have paid for the wild caught version if they had it.

Choice of 3 appetizers. Some pickled vegetable with fava beans, pickled cucumbers and pickled cabbage.

Sauteed vegetable.

Ren He Guan had the 1920’s old Shanghai decor going in their restaurant, which was to say, absolutely fabulous. 1920s was when Shanghai, before the recent renaissance, was at its pinnacle in the last century, when there was a certain hipness attached to things from that era. It fell into hard times after that and only starting in the 90’s that Shanghai came roaring back.

Decent start to the trip.

I didn’t include the map location in the forum software, because Chinese locations are usually mapped wrong. So here’s the correct location:

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We’ll be back in the Shanghai area in November, your reports will whet our appetities for forthcoming trip.

Were you able to get full functionality from the amap.com site without a mainland phone number? Were you able to log in and save dots?

letsvpn was the go-to VPN for many westerners in China, but doesn’t seem to work as well (at all) any more. It was useless for us on a recent trip. Did you use a VPN? Would be most helpful if you can suggest a VPN that will also work for us.

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I was able to get an Amap account and used their phone app, and bookmarked locations. I never got a Chinese phone number. Although I don’t remember how I got the account, whether through desktop or mobile.

I never had to use a vpn. I didnt really know why. Maybe because of the data plan I got? That’s from trip.com.

I rolled with my own vpn. But I never really tested whether my vpn worked or not. If you already have a domain and know basic devops, you can get your own vpn up and running in about 15 minutes.

Where will you be going this time?

The wife’s uncle and aunt will be travelling with us on this trip, it’ll be fun to see the world through their eyes.

Taking them to Hangzhou first, which we very much enjoyed and know they will. Then Ningbo, where my aunt’s family is originally from, before the exodus. Final leg in Shanghai, where my wife’s (uncle’s also) side of the family used to call home. They all speak Shanghainese, makes travel eazy peazy.

Then Shanghai to Kaoshiung, where uncle was born and raised. Finishing up in Taipei, auntie was born in Keelung.

He was a sushi chef, and owned some restaurants. They both have alot of food background, and like to eat. We’re always lamenting that we need more eaters when we travel, then we can go all out on more of the menu(s). This is gonna be a good eating trip.

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Sounds fabulous! I hope you are moved to report, I really love reading your reports!!!

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Nice. Plenty of good food awaits!

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The one restaurant that I wished I ate at was Rong Cuisine 荣小馆. They were the casual offshoot of Xin Rong Ji 新荣记. I am a sucker for fresh live seafood and they specialize in that from Zhejiang. But they don’t take reservations and go on some sort of get a time when they open and come back to eat when its your turn. Which obviously is inconvenient.

Thanks for the headsup. On the list.

Two weeks to go, getting antsy.